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  • 4 Days in Mexico City

    4 Days in Mexico City

    [vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]I had never given too much thought to Mexico City. After all, I’d done the beaches in Cancun and Cabo and the border was 30 minutes from my house. But after a couple of layovers there and hearing more and more good things about it, we decided to look at flights. $115 round trip from Tijuana. Done.[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Before I get into all of the things we ate and did, here are a few tips I have:

    1. We went to Mexico City in July which is part of the rainy season. (Yeah, living in San Diego I tend not to consider those things). I was a bit dismayed checking the forecast before we went but don’t let the “rainy season” stop you from traveling there. It was pleasant during the day, sometimes hot and even sunny. The rain would start between 4pm and 5pm and every day we were there it wouldn’t last too long. It also happened to rain whenever we were heading back to the hotel for a nap, shower, or watching Lucha Libre so it didn’t bother us in the slightest.
    2. If you’ve read about Mexico City at all you’ll know to expect traffic. And you should. But if you don’t mind walking and are staying in a central location you don’t always have to hop in a car or bus. We didn’t take the Metro but did take Uber every time we needed transportation – it’s ridiculously cheap and felt safer than trying to catch a cab.
    3. Mexico City sits at about 7,500 feet. Altitude affects (and doesn’t affect) everyone differently but I would just remember that you’re pretty high up there! We tried to drink as much water as possible (this also may have been because we were also drinking beer, wine, and mezcal).
    4. There is not a whole lot going on in Mexico City on Sunday night. I didn’t find Monday night to be too much better. We knew this going into our trip so planned accordingly and still had some great meals, but just something to be aware of – 90% of the bars and restaurants you might be looking to go to will not be open (if they’re open on Sundays they’ll be closing early).

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    Where to Stay

    We opted to save a few bucks and used points at the Sheraton Maria Isabel which I’d recommend. It’s a really central location with nice rooms that you’d expect from a nice Sheraton. Apparently, there is a second tower that hasn’t been updated yet but since we didn’t stay there I can’t speak to that. If you want to splurge a bit the Four Seasons and St. Regis are down the road and really, at under $300 a night (at the time we visited) not a splurge for the fact that they are the Four Seasons and St. Regis. Or, you can find plenty of great Airbnbs for low prices if you’d rather go that route.[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]

    Where to Eat (and Drink)

    La Docena – not only was this place delicious, it’s open on Sunday nights! And near the arena where you can catch a Lucha Libre match. La Docena is known for their oysters but they plenty of other seafood and meat dishes too. But…their oysters…now, I honestly don’t get what the big deal is over a raw oyster but these…these were smoked with tuna crudo on top. They were not only the best oysters I will probably ever have in my life, but just generally a really great dish. We also had some yummy mussels, a tuna special, and summer wine (whatever that is) mixed with vodka served in a penguin.[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”809″ img_size=”500x” alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_rounded”][vc_column_text]Seneri – Seneri is a contemporary Mexican restaurant that sits above Mercado Roma (which looked delicious itself). I definitely recommend if you’re looking for a nice dinner date. They took their time bringing out our food and we had a nice night with a bottle of wine from Guadalupe Valley.[/vc_column_text][vc_media_grid grid_id=”vc_gid:1500954021137-22664871-e350-2″ include=”801,802,803″][vc_column_text]Fonda Fina – another restaurant in Roma Norte, this place was a bit more casual but still definitely delicious. We had pork belly sope, a squash blossom salad, and a flank streak. After the small plates and salads you get to pick your meat (or fish), sauce, and side. Try the mezcal ice cream to end your meal. Also…they’re open on Mondays![/vc_column_text][vc_media_grid grid_id=”vc_gid:1500954021140-b151efd0-8c34-7″ include=”813,814,815″][vc_column_text]Lardo – we walked here for brunch on Sunday. Expect to wait a bit (perhaps not during the week). You can buy a coffee and pastry while you wait. We ended up sitting at the bar and had two good egg dishes and some mimosas. I thought the food was pretty good and I wasn’t feeling all that adventurous with my order so it would be worth going back to.[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Parian Condesa – we checked out this food hall on Tuesday afternoon. It was pretty empty so we were able to get a seat out on the back patio and they have waiters that serve you from any of the stalls in the food hall. We ended up ordering some delicious guacamole and had a few tacos as well, but they had all kinds of varieties of food if you need a break from Mexican![/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]

    Tacos!

    El Califa – located just a couple of blocks from the Sheraton – we had a variety of delicious tacos with lots of cheese, guacamole, and a few beers. The tacos definitely differentiate in price and I think there are definitely cheaper taco places out there, but this was really good![/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”799″ img_size=”500x” alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_rounded”][vc_column_text]El Farolito – located in Polanco, this was another delicious taco stop. I felt like I overate at El Califa so tried a little bit less here, but overall I think I preferred El Califa. This stop did finally bring us to the neighborhood of Polanco so we spent some time walking around after and checking things out after that.[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]

    Drinks!

    Due to the fact that we arrived on Saturday and Sundays and Mondays are completely dead, we didn’t have a chance to check out as many places as I would have liked.

    Felina Bar – a small, dark, hipster bar that made us feel like we were in Brooklyn or San Francisco. You could tell the bartenders put a lot of love into making their drinks (and a lot of time). We had a fun time here the drinks were yummy but if small, dark, hipster bar isn’t your scene I would probably skip it.[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]Licorera Limantour – we found seats at the bar here on a Saturday night and tried a couple of different signature cocktails. Delicious! I definitely recommend coming here for a drink. They also played amazing old school hip hop music the entire time we were there adding to the greatness.[/vc_column_text][vc_column_text]La Cerveceria de Barrio Condesa – we stopped here for a drink and to take in some people watching. Located on the corner of a cute street with shops and restaurants, you can grab a beer and a variety of Mexican food (we went with some tuna which seemed to be one of the themes of the weekend). Definitely a nice stop on an afternoon walk![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]

    To Do

    Teotihuacan – these Aztec ruins are located about 45 minutes outside of the city. We spent about 2 1/2 hours there walking around and hiking up and down pyramids. We went on a Monday morning, which I’d definitely recommend — or at least, I wouldn’t recommend going on a Sunday when it’s free for Mexicans so more crowded, and by the time we were heading out a little after 1pm it had gotten a lot more crowded than when we arrived at 10:30am. Be prepared to walk! We probably walked around 5 miles when we were there and climbed A LOT of flights of stairs – but the ruins were cool and it was definitely nice to get a break from the city.[/vc_column_text][vc_media_grid element_width=”6″ grid_id=”vc_gid:1500954021142-010b520e-4203-9″ include=”812,810″][vc_single_image image=”811″ img_size=”large” alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_rounded”][vc_column_text]Chapultepec Park – this huge park is in walking distance from the Sheraton. We checked out the castle which was pretty cool and just spent some time walking around the park. We also found Alas de la Ciudad (the wings of the city) which is fun for a photo op! We heard the Anthropology Museum was great as well, but didn’t make it there.[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”805″ img_size=”large” alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_rounded”][vc_single_image image=”821″ img_size=”large” alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_rounded”][vc_column_text]Luche Libre – so, so entertaining. We ended up going on Sunday at 5pm which was perfect because 1) it ended up raining while we were at the match 2) it was close to La Docena which is open on Sunday nights for dinner. I think we might have paid around $15 for tickets and then got cheap giant Coronas and random snacks. There were 5 matches and the entire thing lasted for 5 hours. They don’t have matches every night but if you’re in town when they do, it’s definitely an entertaining (and cheap) two hours.[/vc_column_text][vc_media_grid element_width=”6″ grid_id=”vc_gid:1500954021145-eb64ec12-fa87-1″ include=”806,807″][vc_column_text]Centro Historico – the historic center of the city wasn’t my favorite but worth checking out the Zocalo and the cathedral and walking around for a bit. When you need an escape from the chaos head up La Terraza in the Gran Hotel and have a drink overlooking the square.[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”800″ img_size=”large” alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_rounded”][vc_single_image image=”825″ img_size=”500″ alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_rounded”][vc_column_text]Walk around! La Condesa, Roma Norte, Zona Rosa, Polanco – there are so many restaurants, bars, and shops to check out and when it’s a nice day, it’s nice to just walk![/vc_column_text][vc_media_grid element_width=”6″ grid_id=”vc_gid:1500954021150-c6bc21ee-967b-9″ include=”808,804″][vc_column_text]Casa Azul (Frida Kahlo Museum) – our experience at the Frida Kahlo Museum wasn’t the best – the whole experience was completely unorganized and crowded and I’m not sure if I can recommend it (perhaps I just wasn’t appreciating it enough). But, it did bring us to the area of Coyoacan which felt like a small town worlds away from Mexico City. If you’re in the area on Saturday there is a big market – there were still a handful of stalls open when we were there on a Tuesday. Note: closed on Mondays (as most museums are).[/vc_column_text][vc_media_grid element_width=”6″ grid_id=”vc_gid:1500954021151-e74d2ab4-988c-0″ include=”818,819″][vc_media_grid element_width=”6″ grid_id=”vc_gid:1500954021152-819c12a5-a3e5-4″ include=”822,816″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]All in all we had a great time in Mexico City, and for the price of flights and hotels, we would definitely go back – but probably make sure to leave by Sunday evening next time. There are so many more delicious restaurants and bars to check out! In addition to where we went, we plan to go back and try out Tacqueria el Greco, Volver, Quintonil, Maximo, Pujol, Peua, and Guzina Oaxaca for food and Gin Gin, Baltra Bar, La Mascota, Bosforo, Maison Artemisa, Romita Comedor for drinks![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

  • Visiting Vineyards in Valle de Guadalupe

    Visiting Vineyards in Valle de Guadalupe

    [vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]There have been a variety of articles written about Guadalupe Valley being the next Napa – being that Mexico is a drive, walk, and quick uber away (and much less expensive than Napa) I was excited to check it out.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]We walked across the border a little before 11am and called an uber. If you’ve never walked across the border into Tijuana, you should expect a little bit of chaos. There is one road where taxis, Uber, and friends and family are coming to pick up anyone and everyone who has just walked across the border so the traffic is constant. Buy a bottle of water or some street tacos while you wait – it could be a little while.[/vc_column_text][vc_media_grid element_width=”6″ gap=”10″ grid_id=”vc_gid:1490065548307-5b45a17b-bf52-0″ include=”750,743″][vc_column_text]I had read about UberValle (seemingly similar to UberWine in the Paso Robles wine region) but the option was coming up on my phone. Assuming I’d be able to utilize the feature later, I selected an UberX, and twenty minutes later Miguel pulled up in his red Chevy Spark.

    Miguel was wonderful. And talkative. And a lifesaver. Once we got down to the Guadalupe region (we decided to start at the farthest winery we were interested in visiting, about an hour and 45 minutes from the border) I tried to pull UberValle up on my app to no avail. So, I’m not sure if this service never gained popularity and was discontinued, but I won’t assume it’s an option in the future. Miguel was happy to stay with us for the remainder of the day – even letting me end every ride and start up again between wineries.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]

    The Wine

    Our first stop was Vinos Las Nubes, which sat perched on top of hill overlooking gorgeous rolling hills and vines. They had two tasting options – one regular tasting of 5 wines for about $8 and a reserve tasting that was a few dollars more. We opted for the regular tasting and a cheese plate – we were in need of a snack after our two+ hour adventure to get there! Their wines are mostly blends, and all mostly delicious. I really enjoyed all of the reds and went home with a bottle of the Seleccion de las Barricas (for under $12!). I definitely recommend heading here, enjoying some wine, and taking in the gorgeous views.[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”745″ img_size=”large” alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_rounded”][vc_column_text]Our second stop was Villa Montefiori, relatively close by. This winery focused on Italian wines – so if you’re not a big fan of Italian wines I would steer clear. They were smaller than Vinos Las Nubes, but had a nice outdoor patio and the same beautiful views. They had a few different tasting options for $10 and $15 so we did one of each. The wines were okay, but nothing special enough to buy a bottle of, and I don’t think I’ll plan on visiting them again (and, while I drank a bottle of Italian wine every night when I lived in Italy 11 years ago, it’s not usually what I’m drawn to these days).[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”749″ img_size=”large” alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_rounded”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]At this point we were starving, so we opted for a winery that also had a restaurant, Corona del Valle. Corona del Valle had a bit of a rustic feel when you walked in, but then led out to a large patio. There wasn’t much in the way of views here, but the food was yummy (and necessary) and the wine was fantastic. We snacked on some delicious guacamole and fresh ceviche and did two different tastings. I really enjoyed all of the wine I tried here and went home with a bottle of the Merlot and a bottle of the Tempranillo/Nebbiolo. The Malbec was another favorite, but a little bit pricey for my wine-tour-on-a-budget plan in Mexico.[/vc_column_text][vc_media_grid element_width=”6″ gap=”10″ grid_id=”vc_gid:1490065235345-0462e8a4-389e-3″ include=”751,754″][vc_column_text]After Corona del Valle we had time for one more stop, but since we were crossing the border back to the United States that evening, we decided to start our journey back. From our last stop it was about an hour and twenty minutes to the border.[/vc_column_text][vc_single_image image=”748″ img_size=”large” alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_rounded”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]All in all the day was wonderful. Next time I’ll probably plan to have dinner in Tijuana on the way back or stay the night in Ensenada or Rosarito. For more recommendations for dinner in Tijuana on the way back, read on here.

    Our Uber for the day (for about 7.5 hours) was right around $100. Wine tastings were anywhere from $8-$15 and bottles of wine started as low as $11.50 a bottle. With those kinds of prices and the close proximity to San Diego, I’ll definitely be going back![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]

  • Tacos & Cervezas in Tijuana

    Tacos & Cervezas in Tijuana

    [vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]When I moved to San Diego back in 2008 it wasn’t all that safe to travel to Tijuana – people had even stopped going over for an afternoon of cheap tacos and beers. As things started to change all I heard were nightmare stories about how long it took to cross the border on the way home and I lost interest and all but forgot about it. Then, I had lunch with a girlfriend who had recently spent the day there with her boyfriend and had lots of recommendations – I was sold. The following weekend we made our way down on a Saturday afternoon for a day full of eating and drinking.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_single_image image=”427″ img_size=”500x” alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_rounded”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]We were starving by the time we made our way to the border, parked (it seemed like a nightmare even finding a paid lot that wasn’t full so we ended up parking in the outlet mall parking – I probably wouldn’t recommend this if you were planning on staying very late or overnight in Tijuana, but it worked for us), and walked across we were starving. We decided to grab a cab and head to a nicer restaurant and I am SO glad we did.

    We had an incredible lunch at Mision 19. The owner also owns Bracero Cocina in San Diego’s Little Italy – if you live in San Diego or are planning a visit and want some upscale Mexican food, please GO HERE. Mision 19 was just as good and half the price. For appetizers we had tuna tartare, octopus and a scallop parfait. Then we split a pork belly and baby back rib entree which, not exaggerating, might have been one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. The drinks were yummy and the service was terrific. They also had a tasting menu that I would do the next time around, especially if we went for dinner.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_media_grid grid_id=”vc_gid:1470237017615-278f5285-0cea-7″ include=”435,433,434″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]After lunch we were stuffed and walked about a half mile or so to another restaurant that had been recommended to us, Verda y Crema. Not needing any more food at the moment, we drank some mezcal and sangria and hung out at the bar. The restaurant was cute and the menu looked great – I’d definitely come back again to eat.

    After drinks we strolled around Avenida Revolucion, just soaking in the scene, live music spilling out from restaurants and bars, donkeys painted like zebras on the street corners and touristy stores filled with tchotchkes.

    Calle Sexta is known for its bars, but, unfortunately it seemed to be a bit early for the bars we wanted to check out to be open. We happened to wander into a not-open La Mezcalera which looks like it’s back patio is pretty cool at night.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_single_image image=”429″ img_size=”500x” alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_rounded”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Last but not least, we made our way to “Taco Alley” which is exactly what you’d think – a row of taco shops on a street. We sampled some carne asada, adobada and chorizo tacos from Las Paisas and Tacos El Paisano – everything was yummy and cost about $1 or less – a must stop if you’re in TJ for the day![/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_single_image image=”430″ img_size=”500x” alignment=”center” style=”vc_box_rounded”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]At that point the sun was starting to set and we figured we had a long wait ahead of us so we made our way back to the pedestrian border crossing. We were back in America 18 minutes later. I was surprised – and elated! Maybe Saturday evenings aren’t a popular time to make your way back to (or into) America?

    Tips!

    They have Uber in Tijuana and it is SO cheap. We easily had service everywhere because you can pay Verizon $2 a day when you’re in Mexico with their newer international options so it was simple and much more comfortable than cabs.

    If you have Global Entry bring your Global Entry card and you can access the Sentri line. It wouldn’t have made a terribly big difference the day we went but I can see it being a life saver in the future. Of course, if you are traveling with people who don’t have Sentri or their Global Entry card, you’ll just be sitting on the other side of the border waiting for them.

    So, whether you live in San Diego or are coming to visit, heading down to Tijuana for the day can be a fun (and cheap!) adventure. Next time we’re planning on checking out the beach or making our way farther south to Rosarito, Ensenada or Guadalupe Valley for some wine.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]